These outstanding properties still have available weeks in August and September. Please inquire, especially if you have a small group and/or if you would like a short stay. The owners are ready to negotiate!
Villa Rozzano (sleeps 6-20)
Casa Maggiore (sleeps 4-8)
Il Pescatore (sleeps 2-8)
Villa Diana (sleeps 4-10)
Villa Virginia (sleeps 4-16)
Villa Castiglione (sleeps 2-11)
Perla di Siena (sleeps 4-8)
Lucca Nobile (sleeps 4-14)
Portofino Point (sleeps 6-11)
Casa Matteo (sleeps 10-16)
Doing Florence on your own with a guidebook, water bottle and good walking shoes can be a daunting proposition. How about a professional guide who can get you past the lines in a flash and educate you about art history and Italian culture? We organize these kinds of tours and can tailor them to your requirements and interests. Here is a typical day:
- 9:30am Meet the guide at the entrance to the Accademia and see the museum that features Michelangelo’s David
- 12:45pm Lunch at Gastone Restaurant with wine.
- 2:15pm Guided walking along the streets and the squares of the daily life
in the Renaissance, Duomo square and Signoria Square.
- 4:00pm Guided visit to the Uffizi Gallery.
- 6:30pm End of the program
Contact us if you will be in Florence and would like this kind of special treat!
Nowhere near the madness of the real Palio!
In case you are not successful in procuring Palio tickets, you can watch the trails in the bleachers each of the three days before race day. We did this and, though it was not the actual race, it gave us a great feel for it. Siena was already decked out in it regalia and it was very colorful and festive. I highly recommend Rick Steves’ travel guide book. You can pick it up at the library or your favorite bookseller. Here is what I took from his website:
Siena’s palio is always held on July 2nd and August 16th.
http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/italy/siena.htm
The trials that take place in the morning begin at at 9:00am. In the evening, there are trials at 7:45pm for the July Palio and 7:15pm for the August Palio. For the morning trials, plan to arrive between 8:30-8:45am. For the evening trails, plan on being in the piazza one hour in advance of the start time.
It’s almost time for Carnevale di Venezia, the annual bash that comes just before the beginning of Lent. This year’s celebration begins on Saturday February 6 and culminates in the grand party known as Fat Tuesday (Mardi Gras) on February 16.
If you can’t make it to Carnevale, here are four more reasons to make it to La Serenissima this year …
1. Dance - Venice supports a vibrant series of dance events throughout the year.
Open Doors – a program of public demonstrations and lessons marking the entire range of offerings of the Arsenale della Danza’s annual session, planned from 18 January to 27 May.
The Seventh Annual International Festival of Contemporary Dance – From 26 May to 12 June, American choreographer Ismael Ivo presents Capturing Emotions, because dance, he says “is a workshop of human emotions and shared visions”.
2. Architecture - Amidst the visual wonders of Venice, what better location to encounter some of the best minds in the field of architecture?
The 12th International Architecture Exhibition , directed by Kazuyo Sejima, will be held from August 29th to November 21st, 2010, at the Giardini and at the Arsenale (preview August 26, 27 and 28, 2010), and in various other venues in Venice.
3. Art - Venice is one the world’s great art centers and this year’s exhibitions are spectacular.
Gente del Circo – A loving look at the people of the circus, at La Galleria d’Arte Contini, through 5 April. Free entry.
Peggy Guggenheim Collection – Celebrates it 30th anniversary this year with a fascinating series of twentieth century exhibitions.
4. Cinema - The 67th Venice International Film Festival has been announced for 1-11 September. Entries will be announced in late July.
… and where to stay?
We’ve just added some cozy Venice apartments to our catalog. Have a look and see if one might be right for you. Not all require a one week stay, so please inquire about a price for the dates you require.
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Fuseri (Sleeps 7) This elegant apartment is located just a few meters from Piazza San Marco, the heart of the city. |
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Accademia apartments (Sleeps 2-6) These two apartments are located inside a luxurious 16th-century palace on the Grand Canal. |
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Carampane (Sleeps 4-6) This pleasant apartment is located on the border between the San Polo district and that of Santa Croce and is just a short walk from the famous Rialto Bridge. |
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San Giacomo (Sleeps 6) Located in a very peaceful residential area, San Giacomo offers you the possibility of visiting the most beautiful squares of the city, such as Campo S. Giacomo dell’Orio and Campo San Polo. |
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San Provolo apartments (Sleeps 2-6) These centrally located apartments are in a typical Venetian building that has been recently renovated, just a short distance from the S. Zaccaria Church and Piazza San Marco. |
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Cannaregio (Sleeps 2-4) Located in the Cannaregio district, this characteristic apartment is situated in one of the side alleys of one of the most important and longest streets in Venice. |
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San Bortolo apartments (Sleeps 2-4) These three pleasant apartments are situated in a very central area from where you can easily walk to all the most popular spots in the city. |
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Goldoni (Sleeps 2-4) This central and characteristic apartment is situated on the third floor of a typical Venetian building in Campo San Luca. |
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Guglie apartments (Sleeps 2-3) This complex of seven apartments is located just a few minutes from Strada Nuova, which links the station to the Rialto Bridge. |
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Santa Sofia (Sleeps 2) This modern and elegant apartment is situated in a noble palace that has been recently renovated and directly overlooks the spectacular Grand Canal. |
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Frari (Sleeps 2) This apartment, which has been recently renovated, is located in an elegant building and directly overlooks Campo San Polo. |
Okay, I’ll do my top 10 list too and you can tell me what you think. I love Italy and these are the kinds of things that bring me back again and again. See you there in 2010 I hope.
1. Finding the right train
Having just gotten off my long flight, I made it quickly to the center of Rome. At Termini Station I made a call to Susan, who was already in Lenola, her ancestors’ village to the south. Sure, I’m sure it’s the right train. I’m looking right at it, and it says the right city. I’ll be there real soon. I boarded the train and began to relax. Maybe I should ask if this one gets off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Person One didn’t know. Neither did Person Two. Persons Three and Four were sure it was wrong and waved me off the train. Outside, some helpful Trenitalia guys steered me to the right train just moments before it pulled away. Maybe the travel gods are with me again!
2. Seeing the Amalfi Coast in a new light
I’d been to the Amalfi Coast several times, but this one was something very special. It was October. The sun was still radiant and the days were still warm. Our host in the area showed us some amazing holiday properties, moving smoothly from town to town and cheerily meeting with each owner. In the evenings, we would have dinner in Massa Lubrense or Sorrento and compare notes.
3. Assunta the new Clics model
Actually, these are the cheap Clics knock-offs you get for a couple of Euros at the market in Fondi. You know, the kind of glasses that click together with a magnet in the middle? Assunta is Susan’s great-aunt and doesn’t speak a word of English. But she does know a good deal when she sees one.
4. Discovering Casole Orcia
There is something hauntingly beautiful about the val d’Orcia. This place in particular has a spirit to it that is hard to put into words. The air is so quiet and it flows past you continuously. The terrain is surreal and sublimely beautiful. Pienza is on the horizon so close you can almost touch it. Someone needs to go back and take the pictures the place deserves. You have to experience it. Look here.
5. Watching Giovanni Grow
The highlight of Sabina and Emmanuele’s Umbrian wedding two years ago was the traditional ‘serenata’ where the groom and a few score of friends surprise the sleeping bride-to-be and sing to her as she swoons from her bedroom window, still in her nightgown. She still maintains that she was completely surprised. Last year, darling Giovanni came into their lives and his sweet face will bring us back to Perugia for years to come.
6. Meeting Cecilia
Cecilia shows a lot of pride and an extraordinary sense of style when she shows you through Casale Cecilia, which overlooks Lake Trasimeno. I was very impressed with the place because it’s both elegant and family friendly, and the road leading to Cortona is just below.
7. A Casual Sunday in Sant’Arcangelo
This is Veronica. Her parents Francesca and Giuseppe live in the village of Sant’Arcangelo on Lake Trasimeno. It was a warm and lazy Sunday and after a luscious meal it was maybe time to for us to go home. No, it was time for a walk by the lake. Along the way we saw the end of a soccer match, the trout hatchery and her favorite spot–the pier that overlooks the water. I can still feel the fresh breeze off the lake.
8. Our Pranzo with Irene
Spending time with Irene is like watching a live action movie about Irene. She has so much energy that you think you might get exhausted thinking about all of the projects she and her family have going around the Gelsobello Estate near Barberino val d’Elsa in Chianti. But instead you find that her energy is contagious. They operate one of the most charming little getaways in Tuscany and are involved in wine and olive oil, but that’s not enough. Irene also has also just opened a cooking school on the premises and partners with Cecilia (see memory #6) in a wedding services business. Oh, yes, the pranzo (know in some cultures as ‘lunch’). Just a homemade Bistecca Fiorentina (Florence style steak), accompanied by the best wines and followed by the finest regional torta you could imagine.
9. Strolling Firenze with Claudio
Claudio is a native Florentine and flows through the city’s streets as a native should. We met at the Piazza della Signoria and decided to let him show us his favorite coffee bar. Along the way, he runs into some friends and chats briefly. After coffee, he takes us to see his flat in a park that is just across the Arno, in the Santo Spirito neighborhood. We take in the view from his terrazzo, looking into the city from what looks and feels like a plush countryside grove.
10. Delia’s Roma
There isn’t much about Rome that escapes Delia’s quick mind and limitless historical curiosity. A Romana by birth, she has raised her family and worked as a teacher and editor surrounded by Rome’s treasures. When we are in the area, we always take off and make our way through the city’s streets, museums, monuments and parks. She takes us by the arm and generously shares everything she knows about everything, and we are delightfully enriched every time. This year while under her spell we explored the famous via Margutta near the Piazza del Popolo, made famous in Roman Holiday, where also lived Federico Fellini.
Buon capodanno e tanti auguri per un 2010 felice e sereno!
Jim Broyles
Find Yourself in Italy
Sosta del Duca is a marvelous family-run enterprise. Sandra, Simona, Riccardo and Nicola love their property and take incredible joy in greeting you in and showing you around. And three times a week for most of the year, they are brilliant at shifting gears and becoming the most accomplished and friendly ristorante staff you have ever met.
Simona’s affectionate smile greeted us at the reception desk and immediately made us feel welcome and appreciated. Our check-in was quick and efficient and our room was ready. Riccardo took our bags and gave us a running commentary that provided all the details we need to know about how everything works.
This gave us plenty of time to go outside and take in the view of the Tuscan valley below, with its fertile orchards and olive groves. From Sosta del Duca you get the feeling that you can almost see forever, it is perched so high.
Sunset was still an hour away, so we set off on a hike on the country road that leads to San Gimignano. It was tempting to go off down some side roads and explore the country homes and villas down the way. The real treat came at dusk, when the lights of San Gimignano came on and we could marvel at its medieval charm just in front of us on the horizon.
When we returned, it was time to take our table at La Stanza del Duca, as the family ristorante is called. We made our selection from the extensive wine list, which includes not only local Tuscan specialties, but also carefully chosen vintages from all parts of the country.
They then brought us each course with the same cheer and attention that had graced our arrival. The food, to say the least, was excellent!
Italy is known for its hospitality, its beauty and its charm. At Sosta del Duca, this tradition is taken to new heights.
There are fifteen well-appointed and stylish apartments at Sosta del Duca. See them here.
The Feast of the Epiphany is a national holiday in Italy and is celebrated on January 6. It honors the 12th day of Christmas when the Three Wise Men arrived at the manger.
Italy’s traditional celebration includes the tale of a witch known as La Befana who arrives on her broomstick during the night of January 5 and fills the stockings with toys and candy for the good children and lumps of coal for the bad ones.
The Venetians celebrate Epiphany with a witches rowing race along the Grand Canal.
If you think that Italy is still a land of fast and reckless driving, you might want to think again. With the encouragement of the European Union, Italy has stepped up its enforcement with lots of electronic cameras and a point penalty system for Italian citizens.
It’s serious business, and if you get a ticket, you had better pay. We found out the hard way last year with a ticket in Liguria that set us back 180 euros!
This year, we decided to check out the web site for the Autostrade, which publishes the kilometer location of each camera. When we mapped our travel routes, we also printed out the lists of cameras and paid attention while we were driving. What we also discovered is that in each case, there is a warning sign at least 100 meters ahead, which gave us plenty of time to slow down. We noticed the Italians doing the same thing!
There are two types of surveillance systems on the highways, called Autovelox and Tutor. Here is where you can print out the locations for each.
Autovelox locations
Tutor locations
For more information, click here for an overview.
The more you know about driving in Italy, the more you will enjoy your stay!
Germany has its Christkindlmarkt, France its Bûche de Noël and England its ghosts of Christmas past. The Italians have the Presepio.
From the Latin word praesaepe, ‘presepio’ loosely means ‘stall’, and refers to the scene of the infant Jesus, attended by his parents and worshippers, sleeping in a simple country manger. It is also called a crèche in French and merely the “nativity scene” in the United States.
Saint Francis of Assisi is credited with creating the first presepio in 1223 – a “living” one – set up in a grotto in the town of Greccio. The Neapolitans enhanced the idea in the 18th century and transformed the presepe from groupings of rustic miniatures to impressive spreads of intricately sculpted figurines.
Nearly every Italian church will have presepe and many are found outdoors in a square or other public area. Presepe are usually set up for about a month, starting around December 8, the Feast Day of the Immaculate Conception.
They vary in style and material according to their native geographical regions. Sicilians often use coral, mother-of-pearl, and alabaster from the sea to construct their presepe, while Romans replicate the landscape of Lazio, complete with umbrella pines, olive trees, and aqueducts.
Saint Peter’s in Rome has most probably the most monumental presepio. It is mounted in the Basilica’s piazza and it is over this landscape that the pope gives his annual midnight mass on Christmas Eve.
Naples, Verona, Trento and Milan are other cities known for their elaborate nativity scenes. I personally like to find the small intimate presepe tucked away in the modest village church. I will never forget the story one of our clients told us about their Christmas experience in Italy in 2001. Outside the walls of the medieval town of Bevagna in Umbria were all kinds of different presepe created by the village children. They were all crafted in response to the 2001 terrorist attacks and expressed sorrow and hope. It was the most memorable part of their visit to Italy.
Some notable places to buy entire presepe or the individual figures is at the market on Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples or at one of the Christmas markets in the Alto Adige region north of Verona.
How is it I have been to Europe at least 15 times and never to Rome?
Our first afternoon in Rome we walked from our hotel four blocks to the Vatican and St. Peter`s Basilica. Entering the piazza, I was overcome with sensation, history, the enormity of belief, and the illusion of time. Twenty thousand chairs were set up, rock star video screens and a huge stage under a canopy, ready for the Pope`s Wednesday morning audience. We bypassed the piazza, quickly walked through security and stepped into the Basilica. I have seen a number of cathedrals and large churches in Europe, including Notre Dame, Chartres, the Duomo in Firenze and Milano, Winchester Cathedral, among others, but there really is just one St. Peter`s. It is a palpable energy walking past the burial place of John Paul II, candles, flowers, pilgrims, and a guard standing in silence. Gazing at The Pieta that has spent the last 35 some years behind glass after a vicious attack, you see grace, movement, and love interpreted in stone. Though it is smaller than many of the other statues, it is like standing in front of the Mona Lisa. It`s smallness of size is not diminishing its power to portray spirit.
Upon walking out onto the front steps, we saw the full moon rising over the obelisk in the Piazza. Flocks of black birds undulated like waves in the sky, seeming surreal and illusive, as if they might suddenly disappear and never have even existed.
We had asked an official looking man inside how to get tickets to the Pope`s audience and were told to talk to a member of the Guard. Walking down the steps there were two young men in black suit and tie, looking for the entire world like Mormon missionaries. Doug asked them about the tickets. One of them said to wait, as he walked toward a gate with the Swiss Guard, stopping some 20 feet before, waited for permission to continue, and whispered our request. He waved me forward and I dashed up to the cutest tall, slim and gorgeous young man dressed in a costume of a centuries old design. I said in my poor italiano what I wanted and he told me I would have to pay, at which time he laughed and smiled like a million euro.
So, we had our tickets to see the Pope.
Wednesday morning dawned cloudy and cool and as we re-entered the Piazza of San Pietro, it appeared we were the last to arrive, 45 minutes earlier than the scheduled hour of 10.30 AM. Doug wanted to take the seats available in the back row, but he didn`t grow up going to mass, so he could not know that you can always find a place farther up. We settled into 3 seats, just behind 4 wild and crazy Brazilians, in front of a few Mexicans, and otherwise surrounded by Brits, Germans, Americans, Chileans and Eastern Europeans. To my surprise, many of the people were young adults. It started to drizzle and Nancy said not to worry as she was pretty sure this guy had some pull. Soon the infamous POPEMOBILE appeared, and the rains stopped. It seems Benedict has acquired a new Mercedes, careening up and down the wide set aisles, with close ups on the huge video screens. Wild cheers. Mic Jaeger would be jealous.
It must be requirements to being pope that you have to look great in white and speak lots of languages.
That alone, would have put Benedict on the short list. It is said that he only wanted to move home to Germany and retire after the death of his friend John Paul, but he got elected. Ups. I wonder if it is a job that anyone has ever turned down. Being in the Vatican, if you believe in reincarnation, which you don`t by the way if you are Catholic, you might find yourself thinking, hey, why not do a life time here and have this amazing experience from the inside. It was intriguing in The Di Vinci Code. It was the ultimate growing up in Catholic school. It`s compelling anywhere in The Vatican. Hum, nothing wrong with a simple little black dress. And I love red accessories. The Audience was a special moment but repeated every Wednesday morning, and one Doug said was the Carnegie Hall of church events. Leaving the Piazza with the video screens turned off, 20,000 people milling out, and all high on what? I am not sure. A since of oneness that we had all come together at this moment in time, from all over the world, all really wanting the same things. Beyond any religion or nationality, but a knowing that we were all the same. Blessed. The sun was shining and it was a mile`s walk to the Vatican Museums.
One of the great benefits to traveling in November is missing the crowds. We waited only minutes in line to buy our tickets and enter the enormous space that make up the museums. There are really many museums here, Ancient Egyptian, Early Roman, maps, frescos, ceilings, statuary, gardens, and the Oh My God building itself. There is so much beauty everywhere that sometimes I would accidently look down and see that I was walking on a marvelous floor of multi-colored granite and marble or ancient tiny tile. I have heard through my life that the church was so rich it should just sell off its treasures and feed the poor. And I might have thought that on occasions travelling in really poor areas of the world. Now having been here I will never think that again. Art is itself food for the mind, soul and heart. No, it does not feed those who do not visit, but those who do are changed, and if you are changed by beauty, you will always seek more beauty. And there is nothing wrong with that. Somewhere I read that 80 % of the art in the world is in Italy. This may or not be true, but it does seem to be everywhere you look. That was day 2 in Roma…..more to follow.
