From Lucca to the Tuscany Seaside

Our Italian friends tell us that Lucca is a fun place to live and to visit because the people from here do such a good job of getting the most out of life.

The area is known for its thriving artistic community and for a lively culture.  The food and wine are superb and the monthly antiques market is a fascinating venue filled with historic treasures brought in from family attics and basements – things you would never see anywhere else.

We were not surprised to learn that the town sponsors one of the most important festivals in the world dedicated to comic books.  Held every October, this colorful and zany event takes over the town and transforms it into a world of fantasy and adventure.

On our most recent outing to Lucca, we stayed at Villa Buonvisi, and enjoyed the hospitality of its owner, Gianna.


She gave us a tour of her classic 16th century Lucca style villa with its lovely gardens and an interior that features beautiful furnishings and Renaissance paintings on its walls.


We often recommend a stay near Lucca because it is so easy to reach the seaside for a day trip and today that is exactly what we will do.

Gianna suggests an outing to Pietrasanta, a beautiful town which is an important center for sculptors.  Michelangelo spent a lot of time in Pietrasanta during the years that he was selecting marble from nearby Carrara and meeting with his benefactors, subjects and fellow artists.

We took a leisurely stroll through the town streets and were struck by the size and the beauty of the pieces that have been placed in the main square.  Although they are massive in scope, the town still manages to do a periodic change, in order to keep all the important works visible.


We are fortunate to be joined by Serena, who is a wonderful tour guide specialized in this
area.   Her English is perfect and her insights and explanations add so much to the experience.

She takes us down a nearby street and into one of Pietrasanta’s few studio complexes, where we can watch artists at work, creating new pieces from marble and bronze.


Here we also found artists doing the intricate work of creating mosaics.



Finally, we ended our day with a walk on the beach at Marina di Pietrasanta.


And when it was over, we were back in Lucca in less than an hour, just in time to enjoy a glass of local wine and antipasti at Ciclo di Vino, Lucca’s only combination bicycle shop and wine bar!!


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Settignano – The luxurious setting of Villa Gamberaia

Settignano is a small and welcoming village with an artistic legacy.  It’s close enough to Florence to enjoy a day of touring and then return home without a long drive.  And it’s still rural enough to offer a view of fields in cultivation and narrow country roads.

Michelangelo Buonarroti himself was a major landholder here in the latter part of his career, after he had attained enough fame and fortune to begin buying land.  His family roots were here, and it was important to him to keep this beautiful land in his family’s possession. The modern day Villa Michelangelo stands today on the original part of his property.

About a half-century after Michelangelo’s death, the magnificent Villa Gamberaia was completed by Zanobi Lapi near Villa Michelangelo.  During its storied lifetime it was the home of a series of well-known noble families.

Today, Villa Gamberaia is available for vacation rentals and is often the location for exquisite weddings, reunions and photo shoots.

Its garden is considered one of the most beautiful in Europe and is featured in many photographic books about gardens.

The interior of Villa Gamberaia includes carefully restored antiques, tapestries and art works.

For the discriminating client looking for the very best that Italy has to offer, Villa Gamberaia is an excellent choice.

Contact us to learn more.

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A luxury villa inside Rome is hard to find

Rome is a busy and exciting city, filled with timeless treasures that can be found with a brisk walk and a handy guidebook.  Its convenient underground Metro can whisk you from one side of town to the other.  Take some time to shop on Via Condotti, see the Caravaggios near Piazza Navona, experience St. Peter’s magnificent basilica and allow some time for a stroll in the park surrounding the Villa Borghese.

And at the end of the day, have the luxury of returning to Roma Elegante, a luscious villa in the quiet and beautiful neighborhood of Rome called Monteverde.

Roma Elegante offers a wide variety of premium amenities including a small office, WiFi, satellite TV, workout room, billiard table, daily Continental breakfast and a private pool in the villa’s garden.

It only takes a few minutes to return to the center of Rome via the private shuttle service. But you might want to extend your restful time here and experience what this interesting area has to offer.  Just across the street is the historic Villa Doria Pamphili, a 17th century villa located in Rome’s largest landscaped park.

Roma Elegante can be rented for a minimum of three days, so whatever the duration of your sojourn in the Eternal City, this villa can accommodate you.  Contact us for a complete proposal.

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The Kingdom of Tavolara – You can see it from Villa Bianca

You might already know a lot about Italy, but have you ever heard of the Kingdom of Tavolara?  Located on the beautiful island of Tavolara off the northeastern coast of Sardinia, it is an “imaginary state” that was set up by the Bertoleoni family in the 1800s, who proclaimed it as an independent state.

This fascinating micronation was ruled by Kings Giuseppe through Paolo II, who “reigned” between 1836 and 1962.

Nowadays, the island is the setting of the Tavolara Film Festival, one of Sardinia’s most popular summer events.

From luxurious Villa Bianca, you can gaze at Tavolara from the privacy of your own swimming pool and terrace.

Located in the resort of Porto San Paolo, Villa Bianca sleeps up to 10 guests, with five beautifully appointed bedrooms and five baths.

If you would like to stay at Villa Bianca, please contact us for more information.  We would love to talk with you about this villa or other luxury accommodations throughout Italy.

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Cast an Eye on the Borromean Islands from Villa Camilla

One of the pleasures of staying on Lake Maggiore is a leisurely trip to the Borromean Islands that sit peacefully off the coast of Stresa.  Boats leave throughout the day from Stresa’s docks and travel frequently between the three islands.  You can make a day of it, enjoying a meal on one island and strolling through castles and gardens on another.

Each island has its own personality and character.  Isola Bella has an elegant 17th century castle, beautiful gardens and numerous terraces overlooking the water.  Isola Pescatore in the only inhabited island, with a quaint village featuring charming shops, cafes and restaurants.  Isola Madre offers 19th century English style gardens and a palace filled with Italian masterpieces and paintings.

IMG_3331A quiet stroll on Isola Pescatore

Villa Camilla, perched above Stresa, is a perfect villa for enjoying a lake holiday.  It enjoys a splendid panorama in a peaceful position on the first slopes above the town.  The villa has been recently renovated in an elegant modern style that features a beautiful infinity pool and a comfortable interior with every modern convenience.

Contact us for further information about Villa Camilla or for an expanded search to locate the perfect villa for your lakes vacation.

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Villa Cetinale – One of Edith Wharton’s favorites

In 1904, Edith Wharton published “Italian Villas and Their Gardens“, on assignment from Century magazine.

During her four month visit, she documented her observations of Italy’s most beautiful gardens.  Her book is considered one of the earliest and most important works on this subject.  The original edition included illustrations by Maxfield Parrish.

In 1998, Vivian Russell paid homage to Edith’s pioneering work by publishing the lavishly photographed “Edith Wharton’s Italian Gardens“.  We were pleasantly surprised to see that the lush lemon garden at the entrance to Villa Cetinale is featured on the cover.

Villa Cetinale was built in 1680 under the auspices of Cardinal Flavio Chigi for his uncle, Fabio Chigi, who became Pope Alexander VII.  The gardens were a favorite of Edith Wharton’s and she considered them one of the most beautiful in Italy.  She particularly loved the long green park, which extends peacefully from the back of the villa to the Cardinal’s spiritual retreat at the peak of the hill beyond.

The grounds are rich with distinctive statuary by Guiseppe Mazuoli, who was a close associate of Bernini.

Its recent owner has been an English earl, whose family has devoted its energy and resources to continuing its delicate preservation.  Photos of Villa Cetinale are featured in Vanity Fair’s story “The Decadent Italian Interiors of Villa Cetinale in Tuscany“.

There is much to say about Villa Cetinale, and much yet to learn.  Contact us about experiencing it for yourself.

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My introduction to Italy’s craft beers

I am not a craft beer expert, but I know what I like.  Living in Denver, it seems like we are at the epicenter of an explosion of creativity and flavor that seems to know no bounds. People here really love well-made beer.

So the more I enjoy craft beers, the more I realize that there is much to learn.  And the more I learn…the more I enjoy.

In October, I had the pleasure of spending a day at the Great American Beer Festival in Denver, sampling craft brews from all parts of the U.S.

Three days later I boarded a plane for Italy for a business trip, intent on learning more about its fast-growing craft beer movement, the world of birra artiginale.  My research was more casual than comprehensive.  With little time available, there are so many producers I did not see.

My casual research has opened my eyes (and my palate) to something truly extraordinary. Italy has always excelled in things both artistic and culinary, and its approach to craft brewing is no exception. The producers I met are creating something that is both characteristically Italian and unmistakably world class.

As with America’s craft beer movement, these artisans are making their start from small facilities and humble beginnings. You can sense that some of these visionary producers are going to do great things.

The prevalence of craft brewers changes with the geography of Italy, with just a few in the south and an abundance in the north.  In every region, they promised there would be more coming.

In Tuscany, I stopped by Birrificio San Quirico and was happy to find it open and its birraio (brew master) hard at work. They produce a double malted English pale ale called Giulitta and a high-fermentation blonde called Iris. I sampled both and found them to be well-constructed and drinkable.

Birrificio San Quirico

Roughly half way up the boot is Umbria, which has several emerging and dynamic brewers, and great enthusiasm for beer. I first visited Birra Khamen, located in a countryside area on the outskirts of Perugia.

thumb_90_205805Andrea Valigi was there with his mother, who manages the small shop on the premises. Their family business includes beer making, meat processing and the sale of delicious artisan food products of the area. While I waited for Andrea, his mother gave me some samples of salsicce, a tasty Italian sausage.

He then took me through his small brewery, which makes five types of beer. He explained that hops thrive mostly in countries north of Italy, and so most are imported from the U.S., Germany and other European countries. One of their brews, Jewel, is made entirely from U.S. hops.

Birra dell’Eremo is the dream of Enrico Ciani and Geltrude Salvatori Franchi. Located near Foligno, it has been in operation only about a year, and is already exporting broadly to Australia and throughout Europe.

Birra dell EremoGeltrude cheerfully showed me their thriving operation, which consisted of several 500 liter tanks making six different styles. She first gave me a taste of their IPA, which I found to be modestly hoppy in the manner preferred by Italians (who have not yet fully accepted the more bitter aspects of the brew). This was followed by their blonde beer, which turned out to be delicious and easy on the palate.

SanBiagioThat evening, we enjoyed dinner with friends at Il Giardino, on the banks of Lake Trasimeno. By coincidence, it was the night the restaurant was featuring a tasting (degustazione) of San Biagio beers, produced also in Umbria. There was a ‘sommelier’ who went from table to table, describing the beers and recommending appropriate pairings. I ordered a strong ale to taste, but he instead steered me toward the pilsner, which turned out to be a great match for pizza. From time to time, he would come by and refresh the glasses of each guest from the stylish 750ml San Biagio bottles.

P1070418From Umbria, our journey continued to the far north of Italy, to the region of Piemonte. This is an area famous for great wines like Barolo, and also for amazing craft beers. The small and unassuming village of Piozzo is home to Baladin, maker of more than forty types of craft brew which are available throughout the world. We had the pleasure to stay at Casa Baladin, an artsy renovation of an old inn, offering wonderful rooms and a first-class restaurant. Their specialty is a six course meal with an appropriate beer pairing with each course.

Picture 374Our last leg took us to Rome, where we made a reservation at Open Baladin, the most famous and best-stocked brew pub in Italy. In addition to a full tap of Baladin products, they also offer a big selection of alternative craft brews from throughout Italy. The restaurant menu has a choice of cuisine to match to their beers, including the most unusual and delicious hamburgers we have found in Italy.

I’m hoping to do a more comprehensive craft-beer only tour of Italy some day soon. Maybe you’d like to join me?

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